{"id":284,"date":"2019-08-30T07:00:43","date_gmt":"2019-08-30T07:00:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.stargazing.me.uk\/?p=284"},"modified":"2020-07-02T07:55:58","modified_gmt":"2020-07-02T07:55:58","slug":"telescope-buying-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"\/?p=284","title":{"rendered":"Telescope Buying Guide: How To Choose Your First Telescope"},"content":{"rendered":"

Once you have got to grips with all the star charts, maps and other technical information you need to become a fully equipped amateur stargazer, the next question is, which telescope to buy<\/a>? There are so many different models out there, with different specifications, performances and specialised gadgetry, that it can be a little confusing to know what it is you should be spending your money on.<\/p>\n

Thanks to Anacortes Telescope in Anacortes, Washington, we have put together an handy telescope buying guide to help you make one of the most important decisions of your astronomy career. Carry on reading to get to grips with a few of the basics…<\/p>\n

Aperture<\/h2>\n

This is another name for the light-gathering abilities of a telescope, and it’s actually one of its most important features. The ability of a telescope to pull all of the available light from the surroundings is what makes those fuzzy images that you are looking at brighter and more visible.<\/p>\n

Increasing the magnification does not necessarily create a better view, because you are not only magnifying what you are trying to look for, but also the layers of atmosphere your telescope has to look through in order for you to see the image.<\/p>\n

A smaller telescope is more suited for viewing the stars and planets closer to the earth, while a much larger Dobsonian is better for getting good views of the really deep space objects.<\/p>\n

https:\/\/youtu.be\/eznCl-PjDc0<\/p>\n

Focal Length and Ratio<\/h2>\n

Focal length is the distance taken by the lens or mirror in order to be able to focus starlight. Focal length decides the length of your telescope, and the magnification given by each eyepiece (the magnification is the focal length of the telescope divided by the focal length of the eyepiece, in case you were wondering).<\/p>\n

The focal ratio is the focal length of the tube, divided by the diameter of the lens or mirror. Helpfully for you, these numbers are printed on the tube of every telescope!<\/p>\n

One useful tip to bear in mind is that the lower the focal ratio, the harder it is for the telescope to give you really good magnification. These lower focal ratio scopes are ideal for daytime use, or for getting some really good shots of our own planet, but not so great for deep space.<\/p>\n

https:\/\/youtu.be\/HNYrTcMiNbk<\/p>\n

Refracting Telescopes<\/h2>\n

These are the most well-known type of telescope. Refractors collect and focus light in the lens at the end of the tube, and are great for beginners as they don’t require manual adjustments. They are perfect for daytime viewing, for observing the moon and planets, and are especially suitable for use in cities, as they can help reduce the effects of light pollution<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Refracting telescopes<\/a> tend to be cheaper than some of their peers, making them a great choice for those who wish to get into stargazing but have budget concerns. That being said, there are levels of pricing within the refracting range, based on the type of glass used in the lens itself.<\/p>\n

The three levels are Achromatic, ED and Apochromatic. The more basic lens, the Achromatic, can allow a little colour distortion, which can be distracting, the ED has darker contrast and less of the colour distortion, while the really high end Apochromatic lenses offer good contrast with none of the colour distortion.<\/p>\n